Alphonso

Across this historic city, the morning air is alive with the soothing sounds of the Gurbani, rising to the skies from its many gurudwaras. The devout, an intermingling of citizens, rich or poor, wend their way to these shrines that have shaped the spiritual and cultural richness of Amritsar. Rising head and shoulders above the city skyline are the glorious Golden Temple, or Harmandir Sahib, the holiest shrine of Sikhism. While the spiritual legacy of the Sikh gurus is intrinsic to the city’s moorings Amritsar is also a major nucleus for commerce and industry. Integral too is its alluring culinary heritage which has won global fame.

Centric to the city’s everyday rhythms is its spiritual sustenance. The Golden Temple is sited at the place where the first Sikh Guru, Nanak, visited the healing waters of a venerable tank, what we know today as the Amrit Sarovar; the devout feel blessed taking the ritual dip in its sacred waters. The sacred complex houses the twin pillars of strength, the Harimandir Sahib and Akal Takht, which mirror the twin aspects of life – the spiritual and the temporal world. The circumambulatory path wrapped around the sarovar and the Golden Temple is dotted with symbolic stations such as the Dukh Bhanjani Beri and the sacred jujube tree. Your visit to this ancient city would be incomplete if you did not participate in its cultural richness with a darshan in the sanctum, joining the community kitchen (langar) activities, visiting the Akal Takht to understand the martial aspect of Sikhism – and take part in the ceremonial Waking up/Putting to sleep of the Guru Granth Sahib.

A walking tour is highly recommended to get a real feel of the city’s historic highlights and uncover the rich variety of its culinary delights in its eta streets. The essence of the city is best distilled with interactions with the friendly locals, manning the eateries the shops, the shrines and even people from the local neighbourhoods. What can be a great takeaway from Amritsar is to learn to cook like a local and even try your hand at baking a chappati in a clay oven (tandoor) while enjoying traditional Amritsari hospitality in the warm setting of a family home. And when you hit the shops pick up pappads (spicy snack you can quick roast on a fire at home) and traditional phulkari embroidered shawls and stoles –and the local pointy-toed juttis (footwear).

A really unique experience is a day in the life of a Kushti Pehelwan at a local akhada, where you can witness Indian style wrestling. What’s more fun is having a storyteller unravel the whys and wherefores of this unique sport, in which you might want to get down and dirty yourself in the mud with a pehalwan. A Dangal (wrestling match) has a lot of money riding on it in the village competitions…prizes can range from mobiles to gold!!! Gatka is a unique Sikh martial art, which is a treat to watch. You might want to try your hand at it under expert advice. Adorn your head with the traditional double-layered dumla turban and go at it with the wooden sticks and chakri.

Get a taste of village life by driving out into the country and immersing yourself in the routines of a working farm. Discover for yourself the traditional farming practices, symbiotic relationship with animals, and sustainable living practices. Load up on creamy lassi and a simple home-cooked meal to revive your energy level. Then get ready to shake a leg in a traditional bhangra dance or gidda!

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